Phuket: The Sights and Sounds

Jungceylon Entrance

Phuket has changed a lot since we last visited. Several large shopping malls now replace the low-rise shophouses of the past. One of these mega shopping complexes is Jungceylon, which I’m fairly certain was not in existence that last time we were there. We were not really looking forward to shopping in Phuket (there’s nothing much to buy unless you are into sarongs, beach wear or swim wear) but we were running out of things to do in the day. Nights in Phuket were much more exciting and we had no lack of activities to occupy us.

Phuket Motorcycles
Phuket Street

It was a bright and sunny day. After shopping at Jungceylon and having taken lunch, we slowly walked our way back to Patong Beach. A long, sweaty walk but an interesting one nevertheless. Patong is a place that thrives at night, but is mostly sleepy in the day. We didn’t see many people, much less tourists, walking around. Most must have gone island-hopping or were sleeping in after a wild night of booze and fun. Not that we were complaining. Without throngs of tourists, we saw how the locals went about their daily lives without trying to be overly friendly in attempts to secure business deals. Less conditioned to be agreeable, more real.

The Simon Cabaret Sign

Come night time, we chose to go for a show at Phuket Simon Cabaret. In case you are unfamiliar with cabarets in Thailand, in general they tend to be catered for mature audience and the ladies in the shows are not born females. All of them. Especially the attractive ones. Most, if not all of them would have undergone sex reassignment surgery.

Simon Cabaret P1
Simon Cabaret P2
The Simon Cabaret Montage

The show was entertaining (though cheesy at some parts) and throughout the show, I was simply amazed at how pretty some of the ‘ladies’ looked. But there were also some who just looked wrong. I don’t wish to make a stand on sex assignment surgeries here and now but I do think it is very sad if an individual chooses it so that he could be part of a cabaret as a performer just so to feed the family. It’s one thing to claim that you feel like a woman when you are born a man, but it’s an entire different issue when you are born like a man, feels like one, but forces yourself to become a woman due to circumstances. I suspect the latter happens more often than we care to admit. Or that there is simply a large concentration of men in Thailand who feel like they are women and want to live as one. Statistically this just doesn’t make sense, doesn’t it?

Whichever the case, these ladies have my utmost respect. They made their choices and are at least making a decent livelihood being part of a cabaret.

If watching cabarets is not your cup of tea (as I have realised is not mine), you would most likely not be interested in Tiger Shows as well so skip that. There are other family-friendly shows like Phuket FantaSea, which we had already watched on our last trip. Otherwise just go bar or pub-hopping. Or have dinner on a Chinese junk. And round up the night with a Thai body massage. Numerous options out there.

Resilient Phuket and Its Seafood

The last time we visited Phuket was 4-5 years ago, before the tsunami tragedy struck the lovely island off the South-West coast of Thailand. We had wanted to visit earlier but the opportunity just never presented itself. Not being huge fans of beach resorts (because the mister doesn’t swim and the missus is not a particularly strong swimmer) meant that given a choice, we would usually rather be elsewhere.

This is not to sweepingly conclude that Phuket has nothing to offer to non-fans of water activities, because Phuket is anything but. While we do not go on island-hopping excursions or spend our time sun-tanning by the beach, Phuket is our go-to destination for cheap and good seafood. It is invariably also our top choice when we cannot afford the time for an extended trip or don’t wish to spend too much on a vacation.

Changi Tower with JAL
SQ Acft Landing

It was only our 2nd time on a budget airline. The experience hadn’t been too bad since given our small stature, we do not need much legroom. In-flight entertainment wise, we could most definitely do without for a short 2-3 hour flight. Longer than that, I think I will probably bore to death though. 😆

Hotel Rm Montage

Instead of going for the reputable hotel chains, this time the mister took the suggestion of one of his colleague’s to stay at a hotel he frequents whenever he travels to Phuket (which is like once every quarter!). At first glance, the hotel room wasn’t too bad but it didn’t take me long to find out that there was an issue with the drainage system; the room almost flooded when I took a shower because the drainage was so slow. And I have to qualify that I’m not one of those ladies who takes a 30-minute shower. Needless to say, I was rather unhappy with the mister’s choice.

While I’m not sure if all other other rooms are the same, or if the hotel improved the drainage system over the years, suffice it to say that I would not return to this hotel. Can’t even if I had wanted to, because I cannot recall the name of this hotel even if my life had depended on it.

On to the things that made me happy on this trip – the food. You might have already realised from the other blog posts that the mister and I are quite the foodie. And surprise surprise, despite his fussy palate, the mister actually loves Thai food.

Dinner D1 Montage
Dinner D1 Prawns

Patong Beach is always our choice because it’s the most vibrant of all the beaches in Phuket, it’s accessible and food is easily available. If you are one of those who prefer to stay in the luxury villas at the quieter beaches, it is still rather convenient to get to Patong Beach either by renting your own bike or car, or flagging down a tuk-tuk. As a general rule, we do try not to drive overseas and diesel-driven vehicles make me nauseous so as far as possible, we walk everywhere when in Phuket.

As for seafood, it is not necessary to spend loads of money patronising the expensive-looking restaurants along the beach. But we are way too careful to randomly choose and settle for a street-side stall. There are cheap and rather hygienic options one or two streets down (parallel to the beach), we discovered on our first trip to Phuket years ago. Collectively, it’s like a big food centre with about 8-10 seafood stalls and clearly demarcated tables and chairs for each stall. We’ve been returning to this place every single time we revisit Phuket and our stomachs were always fine after dining there so I guess they passed the hygiene test.

Dinner D1 Oysters
Dinner D1 Condiments

The oysters were as fresh as they could get. Perhaps not as sweet and succulent as the ones I had in France but they were close enough. The way the Thais serve their fresh oysters are quite different from the way I am used to; a plate of 4 condiments was served to us but we couldn’t quite figure how they go with the oysters. I mostly just slurp them up with the chilli sauce that most resembled tobasco sauce.

We went back to the same place for dinner twice more when we were in Phuket. Clearly we are not very adventurous folks. But in our defence, there are close to 10 stalls we could try. And there is a large variety of seafood available. Only that we ordered almost the same dishes every single time. We are boring like that.

Dinner D2 Montage
Dinner D2 Soup

The second dinner at our favourite place, we had pineapple rice. And ordered the usual ‘suspects’ – fresh oysters, barbecued prawns, vegetables and last but not the least, Seafood Tom Yam soup. We learnt something about big King prawns: though larger their meat don’t usually taste that good in comparison to smaller Tiger prawns. The next day, we switched back to Tiger prawns. Lesser meat but tastier for sure. The soups… no complaints. They were as authentic as they could get. We don’t get such tasty Tom Yam soups in Singapore. Not even close.

Seafood Signboard
Dinner D3 Montage

We left the big birthday meal to the last night in Phuket. And since there really wasn’t much shopping to be done there, we used the money we saved to splurge on that dinner. Apart from the oysters, pineapple rice and Tiger prawns, we ordered something different – crayfish. I didn’t actually like the way it was prepared, and was quick to tell the mister that when the dish was served. But oh, I spoke too soon. The crayfish was incredibly tasty and delish. I loved it, probably even more than the fresh oysters. And I am pretty sure we ordered some vegetables because we really love our greens. Must have neglected taking pictures before we excitedly dug in.

Dinner D3 Lobster

The star of the birthday dinner? This lobster weighing over 700 grams. This was supposedly the highlight but to be honest, I found the crayfish nicer than this. Good thing it didn’t cost us an arm and a leg. That’s why Phuket is our go-to place for seafood, with the exception of crabs. In my opinion, Singapore is still the go-to place for crabs. In my humble opinion, nothing beats our chilli crabs.